Hair Perm Rod Sizes Chart & Tutorial - What Size Perm Rods Are Best for Short and Long Hair
A commonly used perm tool by hairdressers in hair salons is the perm rod; its specifications determine the final look of your curly hairstyle. In this article, we’ll share a hair perm rod size chart with style results, as well as the ideal perm rods for short/long hair, a tutorial on using the perm rods, and a comparison with flexi rods.
Hair Perm Rods Sizes Chart - Different Perm Rod Sizes and Results
Perm rods or hair rollers are hair curling tools, typically cylindrical in shape and equipped with a clasp closure to securely wrap the hair. Their surfaces usually feature small holes that facilitate air circulation and drying. Originally designed for chemical perm treatments, these rods have gradually become popular for everyday hair styling. Commonly made of plastic, perm rods come in various colors and sizes to create diverse curly hairstyles. There are two main types of cold wave perm rods: concave and straight. Concave rods produce curls that are tighter in the middle and looser towards the ends, creating a natural, varied texture. Straight rods, on the other hand, create uniform curls throughout the hair. The number of times the hair is wrapped around the rod also affects the curl’s tightness; the more wraps, the more bends and tighter curls you get. Below is a chart of common cold wave perm rod sizes and their results, including small, medium, large, and jumbo perm rods. There are lots of other perm rods selling on the market that you can choose from.
| Diameter (inches) | Diameter (mm) | Typical Curl Result |
|---|---|---|
| 3/8" | 10 mm | Tightest corkscrew curls |
| 7/16" | 11 mm | Very tight curls, spiral curls |
| 1/2" | 13 mm | Small, tight curls; any hair length |
| 9/16" | 14 mm | Tight, bouncy curls; spiral perms for long hair |
| 5/8" | 16 mm | Firm, springy curls; tighter than large rods |
| 11/16" | 17 mm | Medium-sized curls; voluminous curls for any hair length |
| 12/16" (3/4") | 19 mm | Medium-tight curls on medium to long hair; body wave for short hair |
| 1 1/16" | 27 mm | Bouncy, beachy curls on medium to long hair; adds body to short hair |
| 1 1/4" | 32 mm | True curls on long hair add body to medium hair |
| 1 3/8" | 35 mm | Adds body to medium to long hair; too large for short hair |
| 1 1/2" | 38 mm | Largest rod; used only to add body |
Perm Rods Curl Patterns
What Size Perm Rods Should I Use?
When determining which perm rod size to use, the most important things to consider are the look you want and the length of your hair. The advice is to go with smaller rods if you want tight curls and more volume, especially on shorter hair or when creating a spiral effect. Larger rods suit longer hair better and provide a loose curl or wave with more movement. You can even apply several sizes in one hair perm rod set to get multiple dimensions.
Best Perm Rods for Short Hair
For short hair, smaller to medium perm rods are the best choice because they create curls and volume that suit shorter lengths. For example, the 3/8-inch rods produce very tight and firm corkscrew curls, perfect for adding texture and definition to short hair. Medium-sized rods are versatile options that work well for all hair lengths. They can create bouncy curls that are a bit larger and more elongated than small rods, and offer a nice balance between tight curls and waves. If you use jumbo perm rods on short hair, it will mainly add body rather than curls.
Best Perm Rods for Long Hair
Long hair benefits from a wider range of perm rod sizes, especially large or jumbo rods. The 11/16" and 3/4" rods work well on medium-length and longer hair, creating medium-sized curls or soft body waves that add movement without overwhelming the length. For looser waves and more natural volume, jumbo rods like 1 1/16 inch are ideal. These larger rods are mostly used to add body and gentle waves to long hair. When long hair is wrapped multiple times around these rods, it can also achieve more defined curls.
How to Use Perm Rods on Natural Hair?
Before rolling your hair on perm rods, there are lots of preparations to do. Make sure your hair is thoroughly detangled and smooth, especially at the ends.
1. Wash and condition your hair
Start by washing your hair with a gentle shampoo that doesn’t contain harsh sulfates. Follow up with a nourishing conditioner to soften and strengthen your strands. Let the conditioner sit for a few minutes before rinsing it out. This prepares your hair and makes it easier to curl.
2. Apply a moisturizing hair mask
After rinsing out the conditioner, spread a hydrating hair mask evenly from roots to ends. Leave it on for several minutes so it can deeply nourish your hair. Then rinse well. This extra moisture helps your curls stay healthy and defined.
3. Use a leave-in conditioner
Once your hair is clean and moisturized, apply a leave-in conditioner. This will keep your hair soft and manageable while you work with the perm rods. Make sure to cover all areas, especially weak or dry spots.
4. Section your hair
Divide your hair into small sections about one inch wide. Smaller sections help you get tighter, more even curls. Work with one section at a time to keep everything neat and manageable.
5. Apply styling product to each section
Put a bit of styling cream or pudding on each section. Focus on the ends to help curls hold better and avoid unraveling. Spread the product evenly from roots to tips.
6. Roll your hair around the perm rods
Take one small section and lay it flat against a perm rod. Begin rolling the hair from the ends up toward your scalp. Use your finger to keep the hair tight and smooth as you wrap it around the rod. When wrapping, keep the tension consistent, not too tight to cause discomfort, but firm enough to hold the hair in place. Secure the rod’s clasp without making it too tight or too loose. Repeat this process until all sections are rolled.
7. Dry your hair completely
Let your hair dry fully before taking the rods out. Perm rods must dry fully to hold the curl shape properly. You can wrap your hair in a silk scarf and sleep overnight or use a hooded dryer to speed up the process. Make sure no section feels damp before moving on.
8. Check and unroll the rods
Before removing the rods, test if your hair is dry by gently unrolling one rod at the back. If it’s still wet, roll it back up and wait longer. Once dry, slowly unclip each perm rod. Be gentle to prevent frizz or damage.
9. Separate and style your curls
Use your fingers to carefully separate the curls for volume and bounce. Avoid combing or brushing, which can break the curl pattern. Add a few drops of hair oil to soften and add shine while reducing frizz.
Flexi Rods vs Perm Rods: What Are the Differences and Which Is Better?
1. Size and length
Flexi rods are longer, which makes the curls they create more elongated and stretched out. On the other hand, perm rods are shorter, producing tighter, more spiraled curls that sit closer to the scalp. This size difference directly affects the overall look of the curls, with flexi rods giving a longer, looser curl pattern and perm rods creating more compact and bouncy curls.
2. Comfort during wear
Perm rods are easier to sleep in overnight because they are smaller and sit closer to the scalp, causing less discomfort. Flexi rods, being longer and bulkier, tend to be uncomfortable to sleep with and are therefore less ideal for overnight sets. Both rod types dry hair in about the same time under a dryer, but comfort makes perm rods more convenient for longer wear.
3. Curl definition and volume
Perm rods produce curls with more bounce and volume after separating the curls. The curls appear more spiraled and lively. In contrast, flexi rods create curls that are more uniform but significantly elongated, resulting in less volume and a flatter appearance. The definition is clear in both, but the overall effect differs, with perm rods enhancing fullness and flexi rods emphasizing length.
4. Frizz control
Perm rod sets tend to show a bit more frizz after drying compared to flexi rod sets, which offer smoother curls with less frizz. This makes flexi rods a good option if sleeker curls are preferred, while perm rods are better if more texture and volume are desired.
Perm Rods vs Flexi Rods, Which One is Better?
In deciding which rod to choose, it largely depends on your hair length and the style you want to achieve. If your hair is shorter or in an awkward growing stage, Flexi rods are a great choice because they create elongated curls that add length visually, even if they don’t produce much volume. They are perfect for those who want longer-looking curls but don’t mind sacrificing bounce. On the other hand, if you have fine hair or longer hair past the collarbone, Perm rods are recommended. They provide fuller, bouncier curls with more volume and a spiraled look, which works well for adding body to fine or longer hair. Additionally, Perm rods are easier to sleep in, making them more practical for overnight styling. Both rod sets hold their curls for about a week, so your choice depends on the curl style and comfort you prioritize.
Easy Ways to Get Curly Hairstyles
If you’re looking to complement your perm or flexi rod curls or do not want to curl hair by yourself, consider the curly hair bundles from Honest Hair Factory. Our collection features high-quality kinky curly and virgin curly hair bundles, perfect for adding volume and texture to your afro or naturally curly hair. Whether you want longer, fuller curls or a touch of bold style, these bundles offer a wide range of lengths and colors to suit your needs. Plus, our premium virgin hair can be styled, colored, and maintained just like your own hair.
